|Got to watching an old movie last night and while I was at it I went ahead and put the cells in the battery case. WoW talk about a perfect fit. I used some 1/8th" high density foam mat to sandwich the cells tightly inside the box, one piece on each end. The foam was packing material from the lift kit. lol None of the cells actually touch the case anywhere. Lord help me if they ever need to come back out they are in tight. I still need to figure out some way to lock them in place side to side where there's a 1/4 inch gap between the cells and walls for airflow. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears. I also need to maneuver them a little to get the aligned properly. Again No idea how as tight as they fit.|
Yep, if the gc batts are even somewhat close to the Li batt in Kw hrs, then the energy saved by not lugging around the extra weight would be worth the swap.I've got the Li battery in the house running the AC. Might wait until fall before I put it in the GC. The batteries in there are doing okay. I am also toying with the idea of going ahead and swapping them and trying to use the existing GC batteries to run the AC. I would really like to have this one in the GC for the added performance and weight loss but being able to run AC all night without using gas is worth a lot considering how much fuel has gone up. Still thinking on it.
I'm 99.99% sure it happened when I had the axel hopping the day after I put the new battery in. Yes the lift does multiply the torque just like any lever does. I also thought of traction bars. I made the ones on my old racecar that went 8.73 @177mph but I think HD multi leaf pack springs will probably take care of it. If not there's always plan B.I see you have a spring-over lift block on stock springs. This will multiply the torque on the spring, especially if you have ever had to slam the brakes while rolling backwards. brake torque far exceeds motor torque. I'd replace the springs with some heavy-duty multi-leaf, or if stock, make some old school traction bars.