1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
Dismiss Notice
Thanks for visiting Us!
Welcome to WildBuggies

Do you like customizing your golf cart? Or just looking for golf cart help? Then join the golf cart forum for golf cart enthusiasts owned & operated by golf cart enthusiasts. It takes less than 30 seconds! Everybody is welcome here. This Notice will disappear once Registered!

Click here for a FREE account

TXT Ezgo stopped working

Discussion in 'EZ-GO' started by Lmathies, May 17, 2020.

  1. My cart was running fine. I stopped it and when i tried to use it again, it would not move in either direction. Batteries show 38 volts. The solenoid does make a clicking sound when activated by the accelerator pedal. I get 38 volts coming into the solenoid and 37.4 on the controller side. When the wires are removed from the large bolts on the solenoid, there is no longer a click and i get OL reading for resistance. The small bolts/ wires on the solenoid give 2.7 volts when activated. I removed all wires from the motor and checked continuity.

    i get OL for. A1-A2, A1-F1, A1-F2, A2-F1, A2-F2. When I check F1-F2 i get 1.0 as a reading.

    Any help to determine where my problem is will be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. DO YOU KNOW HOW TO TEST THE MOTOR ??
     
  3. I have seen something about connecting a battery directly to it but i am not sure of how the wire connections should be made
     
  4. [​IMG]
     
  5. S-1 & S-2 are the same as F-1 & F-2
     
  6. I have a 12 volt power supply with a switch and pull apart plug coming off my battery pack,
    DO you think I could connect to I for the battery source?
     
  7. I found a post on the regen (shunt) motor. It states to connect A1 to F1. And. A2 to F2. And then connect battery to each of these jumpers
    I also read that if there is no continuity from F1 to F2 that the motor is bad do you have knowledge of this ?


    If the motor is bad is there any risk to damaging the battery?
     
  8. have a 12 volt power supply with a switch and pull apart plug coming off my battery pack,
    DO you think I could connect to I for the battery source?

    YES ANY 12V + SOURCE
    I found a post on the regen (shunt) motor. It states to connect A1 to F1. And. A2 to F2. And then connect battery to each of these jumpers
    THAT IS NOT THE MOTOR YOU HAVE ... REGEN IS CLUB CAR
    I also read that if there is no continuity from F1 to F2 that the motor is bad do you have knowledge of this ?
    YES FOR THE SPINDEX MOTOR
    [​IMG]
    SO ... TELL ME WHAT MOTOR YOU HAVE ??

    If the motor is bad is there any risk to damaging the battery?
    NO
     
  9. PDS
     
  10.  
  11. TXT CONTROLLER TEST
    Check the power output from the controller - Connect the negative probe to the controller's M terminal and positive probe to the B+ terminal. Press the accelerator and watch to see if the voltage increases. It should increase from a reading of 0 to the full voltage of the battery.
     
  12. Do I need to reconnect the motor to test the controller?
     
  13. no ... batteries yes
     
  14. I found a diagram for the controller it shows 4 wires including the M- and the B- and B+

    my controller only has 3 main wires and a plug with 2 wires. I am not sure which are the two wires to check
     

    Attached Files:

  15. DO NOT USE FIRST PHOTO IT IS FOR OLDER TXT


    M goes to MOTOR A-1 ( SOMETIMES LABELED A-1)
    B+ goes tot he SOLENOID

    pds.png PDS  CONTROLLER.png
     
  16. I retested motor continuity and got the same results. I also checked
    A1-Motor Body OL
    A2-Motor Body OL
    F1-Motor Body OL
    F2-Motor BOdy OL



    I checked the controller.

    With Key on - Initial reading is 27 V as I pressed the accelerator pedal the voltage increased to 37 and then dropped back to 27
     
  17. controller is bad
    It should increase from a reading of 0 to the full voltage of the battery.
     
  18. Then is my controller bad?
     
  19. yep if you followed the directions
    starting at 27v shows voltage " leeking" through controller
    going up to 37v is good ,,, dropping off to 27v again is bad
    also if motor tested good then controller is only thing left
     
  20. IF the motor is bad would it make the controller appear to be bad ? Just trying to narrow down if the controller is bas for certain. Independent of the motor.
     

Share This Page