Ezgo stopped working

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My cart was running fine. I stopped it and when i tried to use it again, it would not move in either direction. Batteries show 38 volts. The solenoid does make a clicking sound when activated by the accelerator pedal. I get 38 volts coming into the solenoid and 37.4 on the controller side. When the wires are removed from the large bolts on the solenoid, there is no longer a click and i get OL reading for resistance. The small bolts/ wires on the solenoid give 2.7 volts when activated. I removed all wires from the motor and checked continuity.

i get OL for. A1-A2, A1-F1, A1-F2, A2-F1, A2-F2. When I check F1-F2 i get 1.0 as a reading.

Any help to determine where my problem is will be greatly appreciated.
 
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I have seen something about connecting a battery directly to it but i am not sure of how the wire connections should be made
 
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I have a 12 volt power supply with a switch and pull apart plug coming off my battery pack,
DO you think I could connect to I for the battery source?
 
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I found a post on the regen (shunt) motor. It states to connect A1 to F1. And. A2 to F2. And then connect battery to each of these jumpers
I also read that if there is no continuity from F1 to F2 that the motor is bad do you have knowledge of this ?


If the motor is bad is there any risk to damaging the battery?
 

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have a 12 volt power supply with a switch and pull apart plug coming off my battery pack,
DO you think I could connect to I for the battery source?

YES ANY 12V + SOURCE
I found a post on the regen (shunt) motor. It states to connect A1 to F1. And. A2 to F2. And then connect battery to each of these jumpers
THAT IS NOT THE MOTOR YOU HAVE ... REGEN IS CLUB CAR
I also read that if there is no continuity from F1 to F2 that the motor is bad do you have knowledge of this ?
YES FOR THE SPINDEX MOTOR

SO ... TELL ME WHAT MOTOR YOU HAVE ??

If the motor is bad is there any risk to damaging the battery?
NO
 

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TXT CONTROLLER TEST
Check the power output from the controller - Connect the negative probe to the controller's M terminal and positive probe to the B+ terminal. Press the accelerator and watch to see if the voltage increases. It should increase from a reading of 0 to the full voltage of the battery.
 

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DO NOT USE FIRST PHOTO IT IS FOR OLDER TXT


M goes to MOTOR A-1 ( SOMETIMES LABELED A-1)
B+ goes tot he SOLENOID

pds.png
PDS  CONTROLLER.png
 
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I retested motor continuity and got the same results. I also checked
A1-Motor Body OL
A2-Motor Body OL
F1-Motor Body OL
F2-Motor BOdy OL



I checked the controller.

With Key on - Initial reading is 27 V as I pressed the accelerator pedal the voltage increased to 37 and then dropped back to 27
 

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yep if you followed the directions
starting at 27v shows voltage " leeking" through controller
going up to 37v is good ,,, dropping off to 27v again is bad
also if motor tested good then controller is only thing left
 
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IF the motor is bad would it make the controller appear to be bad ? Just trying to narrow down if the controller is bas for certain. Independent of the motor.
 
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