1) The car will not run.
A) Does the Club Car Solenoid or EZ-GO Solenoid make a "clicking" sound?
If it doesn't, we must first determine if activation voltage is present at the small terminals #1 and #2. Connect a voltmeter across the connections at #1 and #2 and activate the system. To activate the system put the car in the run mode, key switch on, car in forward and the accelerator pedal pushed. If your voltmeter displays the system voltage and the solenoid does not "click", then the solenoid is defective and will need to be replaced.
Make the connection just like this.
B) The Golf Cart Solenoid does not "click" and you do not read system voltage. This tells us that one of the voltage potentials is missing at connection #1 and or #2. To find out which potential is missing, leave the red lead of the voltmeter connected on terminal #2, the positive connection (usually a blue or red wire). However, wire colors may vary. Ensure proper diagnosis by using the correct diagram for the make and year of your car. Place the black lead of the voltmeter to the battery's negative post on the number six battery (the last battery in series from the first positive battery connection to the car). Activate the system as before, if your voltmeter reads system voltage, the positive input is correct. This means the key switch, micro switches and wiring are good and you are missing the negative input. (Club Car Solenoid)
Positive connection at terminal #2.
Continue the diagnosis process by connecting the black negative lead from the voltmeter to terminal #1 and the red lead of the voltmeter to battery #1's positive post (the first positive connection to the car). Activate the system again. If you are not reading system voltage on your voltmeter, you have confirmed that the battery negative is missing. Depending on the system the car is using, the missing negative will need to be traced to its source. Some systems supply the negative from a controller output (or with some Club Car Solenoid, the onboard computer). Most gas cars use the frame as "ground". Electric cars do not use a frame "ground". You can determine the car's ground point by referring to the correct wiring diagram.
Negative connection at terminal #1.
So let's say that we were missing the positive at connection terminal #2. This means either the key switch, micro switch and/or accelerator switch is open or out of adjustment. NOTE: Be aware that some cars use the key circuit as a negative circuit and adjust accordingly as per the correct wiring diagram. You will need to trace voltage to each individual component in that circuit and determine where the voltage is lost.
If your car uses the diode in the solenoid system, make sure you make the proper connections and orientation as the diode is polarity-sensitive! This is different between the Club Car Solenoid and the EZ-GO Solenoid.
Secondary Circuit (power)
1) If the Golf Cart Solenoid does "click" and the car will not run. Disconnect the cable from terminal #4 and lay it aside. Tape the end so it doesn't come into contact with any part of your car. Cable 4 will be the load side of the solenoid that connects directly to the controller/motor circuit. If the car uses a 250-ohm resistor, remove and tape the end of that as well.
2) Place the positive lead of the voltmeter on the vacated #4 terminal. Place the negative lead of the voltmeter to battery #6's negative post. Activate the system. If your voltmeter does not display system voltage, the secondary circuit's contacts are defective and the solenoid will need to be replaced. If you do read system voltage on your voltmeter the problem with your car is somewhere in the controller, motor, wiring/cables, shifter and/or input control, such as an inductive throttle sensor, potentiometer, or v-glide.
3) If the Golf Cart Solenoid does not "click" and the car runs all the time with the key on or off. Connect the voltmeter as per step number two. If you read system voltage without pushing the accelerator pedal and key off the solenoid is defective. This means the secondary contacts are stuck in the "on" position and the solenoid needs replacement.
Safety
1) Raise the rear wheels off the ground using the proper support stands BEFORE you begin your Golf Cart Solenoid testing.
2) Disconnect the battery/battery pack when required for testing. If the car is a regenerative system, place the run/tow switch in the tow position before you disconnect the batteries.
3) If you have a proclivity towards being a pyromaniac, make sure you know where the closest fire extinguisher is!
4) Use extreme caution with higher voltage cars as severe burns can occur by accidentally shorting out connections with a hand tool.
5) Golf Cart Solenoids testing should be done in a well-ventilated area and extreme caution used around the batteries as hydrogen gas may be present.
6) Keep all flames and sparks away from the battery compartment and keep battery acid away from your skin and eyes as this can be a irritant.
There you have it! The solenoid is not some complicated mystery. Just think of it as just any other switch you may encounter that it is electrically activated.
A) Does the Club Car Solenoid or EZ-GO Solenoid make a "clicking" sound?
If it doesn't, we must first determine if activation voltage is present at the small terminals #1 and #2. Connect a voltmeter across the connections at #1 and #2 and activate the system. To activate the system put the car in the run mode, key switch on, car in forward and the accelerator pedal pushed. If your voltmeter displays the system voltage and the solenoid does not "click", then the solenoid is defective and will need to be replaced.
Make the connection just like this.
B) The Golf Cart Solenoid does not "click" and you do not read system voltage. This tells us that one of the voltage potentials is missing at connection #1 and or #2. To find out which potential is missing, leave the red lead of the voltmeter connected on terminal #2, the positive connection (usually a blue or red wire). However, wire colors may vary. Ensure proper diagnosis by using the correct diagram for the make and year of your car. Place the black lead of the voltmeter to the battery's negative post on the number six battery (the last battery in series from the first positive battery connection to the car). Activate the system as before, if your voltmeter reads system voltage, the positive input is correct. This means the key switch, micro switches and wiring are good and you are missing the negative input. (Club Car Solenoid)
Positive connection at terminal #2.
Continue the diagnosis process by connecting the black negative lead from the voltmeter to terminal #1 and the red lead of the voltmeter to battery #1's positive post (the first positive connection to the car). Activate the system again. If you are not reading system voltage on your voltmeter, you have confirmed that the battery negative is missing. Depending on the system the car is using, the missing negative will need to be traced to its source. Some systems supply the negative from a controller output (or with some Club Car Solenoid, the onboard computer). Most gas cars use the frame as "ground". Electric cars do not use a frame "ground". You can determine the car's ground point by referring to the correct wiring diagram.
Negative connection at terminal #1.
So let's say that we were missing the positive at connection terminal #2. This means either the key switch, micro switch and/or accelerator switch is open or out of adjustment. NOTE: Be aware that some cars use the key circuit as a negative circuit and adjust accordingly as per the correct wiring diagram. You will need to trace voltage to each individual component in that circuit and determine where the voltage is lost.
If your car uses the diode in the solenoid system, make sure you make the proper connections and orientation as the diode is polarity-sensitive! This is different between the Club Car Solenoid and the EZ-GO Solenoid.
Secondary Circuit (power)
1) If the Golf Cart Solenoid does "click" and the car will not run. Disconnect the cable from terminal #4 and lay it aside. Tape the end so it doesn't come into contact with any part of your car. Cable 4 will be the load side of the solenoid that connects directly to the controller/motor circuit. If the car uses a 250-ohm resistor, remove and tape the end of that as well.
2) Place the positive lead of the voltmeter on the vacated #4 terminal. Place the negative lead of the voltmeter to battery #6's negative post. Activate the system. If your voltmeter does not display system voltage, the secondary circuit's contacts are defective and the solenoid will need to be replaced. If you do read system voltage on your voltmeter the problem with your car is somewhere in the controller, motor, wiring/cables, shifter and/or input control, such as an inductive throttle sensor, potentiometer, or v-glide.
3) If the Golf Cart Solenoid does not "click" and the car runs all the time with the key on or off. Connect the voltmeter as per step number two. If you read system voltage without pushing the accelerator pedal and key off the solenoid is defective. This means the secondary contacts are stuck in the "on" position and the solenoid needs replacement.
Safety
1) Raise the rear wheels off the ground using the proper support stands BEFORE you begin your Golf Cart Solenoid testing.
2) Disconnect the battery/battery pack when required for testing. If the car is a regenerative system, place the run/tow switch in the tow position before you disconnect the batteries.
3) If you have a proclivity towards being a pyromaniac, make sure you know where the closest fire extinguisher is!
4) Use extreme caution with higher voltage cars as severe burns can occur by accidentally shorting out connections with a hand tool.
5) Golf Cart Solenoids testing should be done in a well-ventilated area and extreme caution used around the batteries as hydrogen gas may be present.
6) Keep all flames and sparks away from the battery compartment and keep battery acid away from your skin and eyes as this can be a irritant.
There you have it! The solenoid is not some complicated mystery. Just think of it as just any other switch you may encounter that it is electrically activated.
