Trouble-Shoot 48v Yamaha G22e won't move

yamahack

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Hi Everyone:
I am a newby here so please excuse my ignorance. I need help! I have a Yamaha G22 electric cart. It was not in the best shape when I bought it, but that is what happens when you pay $800. It used to run just fine, but recently cannot move. The symptom that lead up to the issue of not running was pretty strange (IMO). When it started to act up I could push the cart with foot on the throttle, it would the 'click' and whine and it would start moving. Unfortunately, even that trick no longer works and the cart will not move under its own power.
The issue really started after I replaced and cleaned a few items. The replaced electrical parts were the solenoid, batteries, and high tension wires. The cart worked fine initially, but quickly migrated to the non-running condition. The solenoid does not give that distinctive 'click' now, but does seem to work with 48 V applied directly. The batteries are outputting 53+ volts. I checked the obvious parts, The accelerator stop switch was replaced along with the throttle pot. Neither of them seemed problematic after testing, but I replaced them since they were old. The ignition and direction switches were checked and operate correctly. I am concerned now that it is the expensive controller, but I want to make sure it is actually the problem before I pony-up the $$$. I have not checked/replaced the speed sensor yet since I am not sure how to do that.
What should I check next, and how? Is there any detailed information that is available for the internals of the controllers that may be helpful? Sorry for the novice question(s), I just don't know what to do next.
Thanks,
John
 

Crash Test Dummy

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YOU DID ALOT FOR A NEWBIE
FRIST LETS DO A MOTOR TEST
MOTOR TEST.png

MOTOR MOVES ... GOOD

The solenoid does not give that distinctive 'click'

I WOULD CHECK THE SOLENOID ... NO CLICK NO WORK
LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND


I
 
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yamahack

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Hi, and thank you.
I did check the solenoid by putting 48 V directly across the coil and it did click.
I have a different markings on my motor. The terminals are marked with F1, F2, A1, and A2. Am I correct in assuming that the connections should be as follows:
F2 - +12 to +-24 V
A1 - Ground
A2 connected to F1
Are these connections correct?
If the speed sensor is bad, can that stop the cart in its tracks?
Thank you,
John
 

Crash Test Dummy

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Typically, in a golf cart which uses a motor speed sensor, there are some classic symptoms to look for which indicate a bad sensor. If the cart is creeping along slowly, erratic speed, or shuttering similar to a low voltage or bad battery situation, you may have a bad golf cart motor speed sensor
 

yamahack

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Sorry for the long delay. Had some other projects I had to address. The motor turns after configuring as above. I did some other testing and have found that the solenoid is working (connected 48 VDC directly to the coil side). I put the cart back together and checked some voltages. The voltage coming from the controller is not driving the solenoid coil. I believe that output 11 from the controller should be pulling one side of the coil low to energize the coil, but this is not happening. The main switch, tow/run switch, and accelerator stop switch are working as expected at the switch side. I will try to do some more voltage measuring at the controller from the switches to see if the correct voltage is available.

I am not sure what else to do? Please give me some guidance about where I should focus my efforts.

I will be sure to reply sooner since I will be spending my current time on fixing my headache of a cart.

Thanks,
John
 

Snotty B

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Hi, and thank you.
I did check the solenoid by putting 48 V directly across the coil and it did click.
I have a different markings on my motor. The terminals are marked with F1, F2, A1, and A2. Am I correct in assuming that the connections should be as follows:
F2 - +12 to +-24 V
A1 - Ground
A2 connected to F1
Are these connections correct?
If the speed sensor is bad, can that stop the cart in its tracks?
Thank you,
John
No absolutely not! testing a separately excited motor in series could burn out the field coils they must be connected in parallel to test.
 

yamahack

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I did implement the test with 12 V for about 3-5 seconds. Hopefully that did not damage anything. After doing more testing today I am down to the controller as the problem, but would really like some way to know for sure before spending $500+ on a new controller.
 

Snotty B

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Under no load 3 to 5 Seconds probably no problem, field coils on a separately excited motor use much smaller wire than on a series motor and rated at no more than 20 amps.
 

yamahack

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Golf cart fixed! I thought I would let you know that I fixed the problem with my golf cart. There was a connection from the ignition switch/acc. pressed switch that was corroded. The way I finally found the issue was by going to the main connector at the controller and checked for continuity on each pin. Once I found a possible culprit I started to back trace the wire and check continuity at different locations on the wire. It was difficult to see the connection since the it was in a protective sleeve. Once I fixed that corroded wires I tested the connection at the controller and it had continuity. Plugged the connector back into the controller and everything worked as expected. Thanks again for everyone's help.
 

pastormingle

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I have a 2001 Yamaha G19 that I've purchased for my personal use. It worked until i cleaned the connectors on the controller and rebuilt the battery box. The control has 48v on both A1 and A2 and positive on the controller has 48v and the negative has ground. F1 and F2 both show ground. The three pin going to the 23 pin connector show black ground and red 12v and green 4.5v. I can't get the motor to run. So am not sure what i need to do from here..Any advice?
 

Frantisek

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I am having the same issues as yamahack on my g22e. I hooked up the motor according to the diagram and nothing happened . What should I try next ? My motor is marked with a1,a2,f1,f2 and I connected the same way as he did for about 2 seconds,
 
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