G19e

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I have a 96 Yamaha G19E 48 volt. Got it from a friend he was the motor was fried. Got the batteries (6 8 volts) to hold around 49.44 volts. Took the motor apart cleaned it real good. Found a broke wire on one of the studs soldered it back together. Did a bench test ( A1 jumped to F2 and A2 jumped to F2. ). Motor worked. Put it back on the golf car hooked the wire back up and got nothing. Does anyone know how to check the controller? What r the outputs of A1 A2 F1 and F2 going to the motor? Thanks for any help.

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Crash Test Dummy

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there is no way to test a controller without building a controller testing board
and that is very complicated
if you could do a rebuild service for less than a new one
i would test the solenoid first ( do you hear a click when you press the go pedal?)

WARNING !!! ALWAYS PUT CART ON JACK STANDS WHEN DOING TESTS !!!

here is a wiring diagram for G19E

yamaha g19e.png
 
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K thanks crash I’m going to check it tomorrow. I think I will pull the motor back off the golf car and try to run the motor using the controller. Maybe the motor is weak. Hopeful thinking I’m sure. But what can it hurt.
 

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I think I will pull the motor back off the golf car and try to run the motor using the controller. Maybe the motor is weak.
a weak motor will still work with a good controller
there is no way to run the motor with a controller with it removed
first, check the solenoid 75% of the time it is a bad solenoid
check to see if run/tow switch is in run
see if key switch is working
check f/r switch
check go pedal
check the throttle sensor
if all check out your controller is bad
 
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Checked tow/run key F/R all have 48. Volts. Not sure how to check go pedal and speed sensor. I’m not getting power to open my Solenoid. Run a hot wire to open solenoid. It opens. Now when I push the go pedal. Motor spins for a second and blows fuse. Disconnected the motor, changed fuse. Jump solenoid push go pedal and no blown fuse. So do u think the motor is bad? Had 48 volts to motor to bench test and motor got hot within seconds. Thanks.
 
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The little in line fuse 3A ( #11 on the wiring diagram ) that runs to the tow/run switch. Some put a 25A in there. I’ve been looking at the wiring diagram and it looks like the receptacle B+ is on the wrong side of the solenoid which would be why I’m jumping the solenoid. Motor would get hot like not keep ur hand on there hot.
 
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R we call the relay the solenoid. #9 on the wiring diagram. Because the relay stays hot as long as the tow switch is to run. No matter if the key is on or off.
 
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Well went a whole different route. Upgraded motor ( 70% more torque) and controller (Alltrax 500 Amps). All new cables and solenoid. Hooked it all up. Now the car jerks when u push the pedal. Does not move. Just lunges. Thanks.
 

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throttle sensor for G19 tests. Disconect the 3 wire throttle position sensor from the wire harness (blue/black/orange). Check resistance (blue to black-5k ohms pedal any position)/(orange to black-"with an anolog meter" should vary from 0-150 ohms with pedal at rest, up to 5k ohms pedal depressed. The analog meter should evenly "sweep" while slowly depressing accelerator pedal. Hope that helps.
 
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is the controller programmable ??
check the throttle sensor (#8 in the drawing)
Yes the controller is programmable. I have to go buy the cable and down the program. Just got the tires to spin. It Lunges twice and then starts spinning like crazy without holding the pedal. Have to turn off the key switch and hit the brake to get it to stop. Batteries r at 49.8 volts. How do I check the throttle sensor?
Thanks.
 
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Blue to black 4.93 K black to orange starts at 97.0 with the Pedal up and goes to 5.09K with it to the floor. So I’m guessing that is a good thing. About to check the controller
 

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it would be the standard curve
remember to set it .... both the controller and throttle
if you need you can refresh it then set it
 
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