Had another project to work on first. Picked this up on Sat and so far have topped off the battery cells and charged overnight. 53v after unplugging I believe. Next step is to remove the body so I can go over it and more easily diagnose issues. If i can get her running I plan on new shocks, dash, and paintjob. This morning after charging I turned the key and verified that the solenoid clicks when I press the accelerator in F, but does not in R, and the reverse chime does not go off. I do have 2 questions that popped up before I left for work:
1- I took a picture of the motor and noticed that it says 36v. did someone F up replacing the motor, or did someone take a 36v cart and try to just add extra batteries? does it matter? I can't see the controller so I will have to get to it to verify the model and specs. I was trying not to have to buy a new motor and controller, but if this is actually a 36v, can I just get a 48v motor/ controller package?
2- when pushing it around, it really doesn't coast, like the brakes are dragging. when I put it on the stands, I tried to turn the rear tires, and it was hard and they seemed to be binding for 1/2 turn, then easier, then binding again. I also notice that the other side did not turn the opposite way when I did that. Shouldn't the rear act like a normal diff and turn opposite way when you rotate one side? Or is this a sign the motor is really buggered up? Or is the diff buggered up?
Did I screw myself on this one?
1- I took a picture of the motor and noticed that it says 36v. did someone F up replacing the motor, or did someone take a 36v cart and try to just add extra batteries? does it matter? I can't see the controller so I will have to get to it to verify the model and specs. I was trying not to have to buy a new motor and controller, but if this is actually a 36v, can I just get a 48v motor/ controller package?
2- when pushing it around, it really doesn't coast, like the brakes are dragging. when I put it on the stands, I tried to turn the rear tires, and it was hard and they seemed to be binding for 1/2 turn, then easier, then binding again. I also notice that the other side did not turn the opposite way when I did that. Shouldn't the rear act like a normal diff and turn opposite way when you rotate one side? Or is this a sign the motor is really buggered up? Or is the diff buggered up?
Did I screw myself on this one?
